The Journal Of Antiquities

Ancient Sites In Great Britain & Southern Ireland


Sambo’s Grave, Sunderland Point, Lancashire – An Article by Cliff Astin

Sambo's Grave, Sunderland Point, Lancashire (photo credit: Rwendland for Wikipedia)

Sambo’s Grave, Sunderland Point, Lancashire (photo credit: Rwendland for Wikipedia)

   Os grid reference: SD 4222 5594. I recently came across this interesting article by Cliff Astin in his series called ‘Digging Deeper into Graves’ which appeared in the August 1996 edition of the ‘Really Lancashire’ magazine  A Magazine for the Red Rose County. I thought that it would be good to share this on here for all to read. The well-tendered grave is located at the far western-side of Sunderland Point, close to the coast. To reach the site from Overton walk 1 mile south-west along a track crossing the northern and western edges of the Lune estuary (please check the tides) as there are deep river channels. On reaching Sunderland Point (SD 4266 5598) walk the length of the ‘Lane’. At the far western-side of the lane walk 100m south on a footpath. Here in the corner of a field lies Sambo’s Grave. Children have left flowers, painted pebbles and tiny little wooden crosses at the grave-side.

   [I would like to apologize about the name “Sambo” but it is the one that is “always” given for this site and, also for any other “offensive” words that appear here, they are not the “words” that I would have given, but they are the ones that “still” seem to crop-up in this world of ours. To me that is very sad.]

   “Sunderland Point was, for purposes of shipping, the predecessor of Glasson Dock, which in turn was superceded as the most important port in our area by Lancaster. Should you choose to visit Sunderland Point, take care to check the tide-tables before setting out in order to leave time to wander along the shoreline and to accommodate your return. On reaching the shore, walk to your left until you see a marker indicating ‘Sambo’s Grave’ – a fascinating burial spot but also a somewhat disgusting and misplaced instance of contemporary superiority and man’s inhumanity to man on the part of the local inhabitants of the day. Happily this has been tempered by later and greater understanding and kindness albeit mainly on the part of our young ones.”

   “About 1730 a negro boy who had been acting as a sea captain’s servant arrived at Sunderland Point in one of the ships from the West Indies. Because it took some time to unload and re-freight the vessel, this negro – they called him Sambo, I suppose nobody bothered to ask him his real name – was accommodated at one of the inns. There are no inns at Sunderland Point now but formerly there were two. His master, the sea captain, meanwhile went off to Lancaster to attend to some business affairs, whereupon the negro slave took it into his head that in this alien foreign speaking land he had been abandoned. He became so worried and depressed that he refused to take any food and in a very short time he died. Here’s where the inhumanity comes in.”

   “The “good Christians” of the parish could not tolerate the idea of a black heathen being buried in consecrated ground and so at a spot on the lonely western side close to the shore (it is now one corner of a field) sailors buried Sambo coffinless covered only with his own clothes.”

   “In 1796 (sixty years later) the reverend James Watson, the recently retired headmaster of Lancaster grammar school, was shown the burial spot. By now, Sunderland Point had become popular with visitors so James Watson collected a shilling from every willing visitor and placed on the site a monumental stone containing, in the centre on a copper plate, the following inscription:-” Here lies Poor Sambo, A Faithful  Negro who (attending his master from the West Indies), Died on his arrival at Sunderland.

   “Whenever you visit this site today you will find pathetic but loving little offerings from local children in the form of daisies, buttercups or other wild flowers in jam jars and crosses made from twigs or lolly sticks, for the local schoolchildren and other visitors have taken Sambo into their hearts. Happily in Sunderland Point today Sambo is the most remembered resident.”                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Full sixty Years the angry Winter’s Wave
Has thundering daſhd this bleak & barren Shore
Since Sambo‘s Head laid in this lonely Grave
Lies still & ne’er will hear their turmoil more.

Full many a Sandbird chirps upon the Sod
And many a Moonlight Elfin round him trips
Full many a Summer’s Sunbeam warms the Clod
And many a teeming Cloud upon him drips.

But still he sleeps _ till the awakening Sounds
Of the Archangel’s Trump new Life impart
Then the Great Judge his Approbation founds
Not on Man’s Color but his_Worth of Heart

James Watſon Scr.               H.Bell del. 1796

Sources:-

Astin, Cliff., Sambo’s Grave (article), Really Lancashire – A Magazine for the Red Rose County, Issue No. 2, August 1996, Landy Publishing, Staining, Blackpool, Lancs.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sambo%27s_Grave


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Llangorse Lake And Crannog, Powys, Wales

Crannog on Llangorse Lake (photo credit: Pam Fray - for Geograph)

Crannog on Llangorse Lake (photo credit: Pam Fray – for Geograph)

   Os grid reference: SO 1287 2689. About 37 metres from the northern shoreline of Llangorse Lake (Llyn Safaddan), Powys, also known as “Savaddan Lake and Lake of Brycheiniog” (Bord, Janet & Colin, 1986), lies the tiny man-made island of Ynys Bwlc, which is in fact a crannog, a Dark Age island settlement, dating probably from about the beginning of the 10th century, or maybe earlier, which would have once supported a royal residence for the king of Brycheiniog. The lake is said to be the second largest natural lake in Wales, being formed at the last Ice-Age many thousands of years ago; the River Llynfi (Afon Llyfni) enters at the far south-eastern side of the lake and then, rather strangely flows out of the lake at the far northwestern side, close by the caravan park. The lake is 1 mile long and 5 miles in circumference.

    Llangorse lake and crannog can be reached on a country lane to the west of Llangorse village, heading south close to the caravan park, which brings you out at ‘The Welsh Crannog Centre’. A few miles to the south is the village of Llansantffraed while the town of Brecon lies some 4 miles to the west and, at the south-side of the lake stands the ancient church of St Gastyn at Llangasty Tal-y-Llyn. The place-name Llangorse is nowadays ‘often’ shortened to Llangors.

Llangorse Lake viewed from Mynydd Llangorse (photo credit: Velella for Wikipedia)

Llangorse Lake viewed from Mynydd Llangorse (photo credit: Velella for Wikipedia)

And the lake is also the setting for a number of myths and legends – including one that says the lake is the location for the submerged Roman city of Loventium, but in early medieval history it was known as ‘Brecenenmere’. In 1925 a 25 foot-long wooden dug-out canoe was excavated from the mud near the northern shore of the lake, and in 1990 a second dug-out boat was excavated from close by. These have been dated from between the 8th and 11th centuries AD. In the 12th century Gerald of Wales (Giraldus Cambrensis) visited the lake and made mention in his great work ‘The Journey Through Wales/The Description Of Wales’ of the abundance of fish and also how miraculous it was and, the numerous strange colours that the lake water takes on at certain times. And the lake has long been associated with fairies, very large eels, and a witch who lived beside the lake and was known to frighten-away naughty children!

   Giraldus, who was a medieval historian, claimed that birds living around the lake would only sing ‘when a rightful prince returns to rule the area’. At this time the area was ruled over by King Henry I of England. One day the king was walking along the lake’s shoreline in the presence of two Norman lords and the Welsh prince Gruffydd ap Rhys, but he noticed that all the birds were silent. He then commanded them to sing – they ignored him, but when Prince Rhys asked them to sing – they sang merrily! Near the southern shores of Llangorse lake, near Bwlc, can be found the crumbling remains of Blaenllyfni Castle, a 12th century Norman foundation.

   “The tiny man-made island was first identified as a crannog in 1876 by E.N. Dumbleton”, according to Chris Barber in his work ‘More Mysterious Wales’. The almost round-shaped tree-covered crannog at the northern side of Llangorse Lake is thought to date from c890 AD. It was probably destroyed in either 911 AD or 916 AD possibly by King Alfred’s daughter Ethelflaed (Lady of the Mercians), when according to legend, they “took the king’s wife and thirty-three others prisoner” (Hughes, Wendy, 1995). However, some historians and archaeologists believe it could, in fact, be of an earlier date, maybe 7th-9th century? There is, however, some reason to suspect an Iron Age ‘crannog’ here, artificially improved with stakes as a lake-dwelling like those at Glastonbury and Meare in Somerset (Houlder, Christopher, 1978).

   According to legend a palace is said to lie beneath the waves. Long ago a ruthless princess ruled at the palace; she married a poor man from the town, but the agreement was that ‘he would bring her lots of gold’. In sheer desperation the man robbed and killed a rich merchant. When he returned to the palace with his spoils the princess immediately married him, but then shortly afterwards the murdered man’s ghost began haunting the place and, later warned the newly-married couple that their crime would be avenged, and this would fall heavily on the ninth generation of their descendants. However the princess and her husband became even more greedy and wicked – their lust for wealth being unceasing. The warning eventually came true and the palace was inundated by a deluge of water from the nearby hills which had been triggered by an earthquake – drowning both palace and town – the ninth generation of the family including the princess and her husband were killed, according to “the” legend.

   Local people claim to have seen the foundations of submerged buildings when the water-level is low in drought conditions and, they also claim to have heard the eerie sounds of church bells ringing out from below the waves in very stormy conditions when there is a heavy swell on the water.

   At the north-side of the crannog there is a sort of stone jetty which indicates where a wooden causeway once existed – linking the island to the shoreline. The artificial island measures ‘roughly’ 50m x 55m and is “set upon a base of stones and brushwood” (Figgis, N. P., 1995), and built of willow branches and reeds – with sturdy wooden piles sunk up to 7 metres down into the lake bed. It would ‘probably’ have been defended with a double row of wooden palisades. “Fragments of pottery, implements and animal bones” (Hughes, Wendy, 1995) have been found beneath the crannog during recent archaeological excavations, including the one by Time Team in 1993, and earlier in 1991 a few fragmentary metal parts from a small portable house-shaped reliquary/shrine were found during underwater excavations at the crannog; and there are also apparently traces of hut circles on the island.

Dead Men's Boats by N.P. Figgis (Atelier Productions), 1995.

Dead Men’s Boats by N.P. Figgis (Atelier Productions), 1995.

   In 1925 a 25 foot-long wooden dug-out canoe was excavated from the mud at the northern edge of the lake at (OS grid ref: roughly SO 132 269) which ‘was’ considered to be of a early medieval date, maybe 8th-11th centuries, and so a bit more recent than the lake crannog? The dug-out canoe can be seen on display in the Brecon Museum and a replica is at The Welsh Crannog Centre on the lake’s north-western shoreline, close by the crannog. And then in 1990 second similar dug-out boat was excavated from the lake near where the first had been found. But these dug-out boats have their origins in the Iron-Age. The canoe was eventually radio carbon dated to centre on 814 AD, so there is a strong possibility that the sample dates from somewhere between the years AD 754 and 874 AD, according to author N.P. Figgis.

   The dug-out canoe was excavated 1 metre down in the mud by a local man Mr Thomas Jenkins, and his sons. Author N.P. Figgis in his book ‘Dead Men’s Boats’ says: “The boat they brought ashore was a long, thin dug-out canoe. Her prow had broken off, and one side had caved in, and the stern was a step-shaped, heavy block; she was not like any modern craft”.

   Christopher Houlder in his excellent archaeological guide book: ‘Wales: An Archaeological Guide’, with regard to the dug-out canoe says that: “Though of primitive type it may be only medieval in date, used for access to the island near the N. shore for fishing and similar purposes”.

At the south-side of Llangorse Lake is the hamlet of Llangasty Tal-y-Llyn (OS grid ref: SO 1331 2613) and a mid-19th century church (on the site of an earlier medieval foundation) dedicated to St Gastyn. The churchyard looks to be almost circular in shape, indicative of a sacred site. St Gastyn was a Celtic hermit who founded the first “llan” here in the mid-5th century AD and was apparently the tutor to some of the many children of the saintly King Brychan, who ruled ‘this’ area, which became known as Brecknock (Brycheiniog).

Sources:

http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1823433 © Copyright pam fray and licensed for reuse under this Creative Commons Licence.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Llangorse_Lake

Barber, Chris., More Mysterious Wales, Paladin, London W1X, 1987.

Bord, Janet & Colin., Sacred Waters, Paladin, London W1X, 1986.

Dumbleton, E.N., On a Crannog, or Stockaded Island, in Llangorse Lake, near Brecon, Archaeologia Cambrensis, 4th series, vol 1, part 3, 1870.

Figgis, N. P., Dead Men’s Boats, Atelier Productions, Machynlleth, Wales, 1995.

Gerald of Wales., The Journey Through Wales/The Description Of Wales, Penguin Books Ltd., London WC2R, 1978.

Houlder, Christopher., Wales: An Archaeological Guide, Faber and Faber Limited, London WC1, 1978.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/ahistoryoftheworld/objects/kJyO0xSbTlCmDBtWr3cnsQ

Hughes, Wendy., The Story of Brecknock, Gwasg Carreg Gwalch, Llanrwst, Gwynedd, Wales, 1995.


Beneath The Waves – An Article by Paul Harris

Ptolemy Cosmographia (Wikipedia)

Ptolemy Cosmographia (Wikipedia)

   Looking through some of my old ‘Prediction’ magazines I came across a fascinating historical article by Paul Harris. This article appeared in the June 1995 edition of the magazine and is all about the sunken lands, lost cities, kingdoms and islands (one of which has ‘perhaps’ given rise to the famous legend and, perhaps myth of Atlantis) which are reputed to lie around the coastline of the British Isles. I thought that other people might like to read this and so here it is “quoted” in full. The author says:

   “The coastline of Britain is constantly under attack from the sea with vast tracts of land having been lost over the centuries while medieval ports find themselves stranded inland by the action of longshore drift and estuarine silting. With this ever-changing scenario it is not surprising that many tales are told of one-time kingdoms, cities and islands now lost beneath the waves.”

   “One of the most extensive of these ‘lost lands’ would seem to be that reputed to lie under Cardigan Bay, Wales. Known as Cantrer Gwaelod, or Bottom Cantred, this land was said to be 40 miles in length, 20 in breadth, containing 16 cities and protected from the sea by a series of dykes.”

   “According to a tale told in the Welsh Triads, a dyke-keeper, being drunk, left open some sluice gates which inevitably led to the overwhelming of Cantre Gwaelod by the sea. It is now said that church bells can be heard tolling mournfully from their undersea locations at certain times and that, at low tide when the water is clear, buildings can be seen beneath the shallow sea.”

   “The Triads date the flood as ‘the time of Ambrosius.’ Since Ambrosius was the Celtic leader between about 460AD and 480AD, the flood must have occurred then. So what evidence exists to support the local belief and the Triad story?

   “Well, firstly, there are long pebble ridges that stretch out to sea here. They look like abandoned sea defences and are often assumed so to be. Also, there are megalithic remains in the shallower parts of Cardigan Bay.”

Submerged Forest Ceredigion Coast (photo credit: Richerman for Wikipedia)

Submerged Forest Ceredigion Coast (photo credit: Richerman for Wikipedia)

   “Indisputably then, there were islands off this coast during the Neolithic and Bronze Age periods that have since been submerged, thus leaving the megalithic structures beneath the sea and indicating that the sea level has risen since then. Also, there are fossil remains of forests that must have existed in the warm period after the end of the last Ice Age. These are now only exposed at low tide.”

   “This raising of the sea level, though, affected the whole of Britain, not just Cardigan Bay, and certainly occurred prior to the ‘time of Ambrosius.’ It seems, therefore, that the indications of former land, now submerged, may have given rise to the legend of Cantrer Gwaelod, not the other way round. The Triads story may refer to the flooding of a small island elsewhere. Indeed, it bears an uncanny resemblance to the story of the island of Ker Is which, according to Celtic sources, sank off Brittany during the 6th century.”

   “So what of the sea defences? These apparently are natural formations. Indeed, it was not even suggested that they were submerged sea walls until the 17th century, according to folklore researcher and author, Jennifer Westwood.”

Lyonesse                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Land's End (Looking West) Photo Credit: Carcharoth (Commons) for Wikipedia

Land’s End (Looking West) Photo Credit: Carcharoth (Commons) for Wikipedia

   “Evidence is much stronger, however, for the fabled lost land of Lyonesse, no doubt the best known of our legendary sunken kingdoms. Its capital, the City of Lions, is said to have existed in the area of the Seven Stones, which lie seven miles west of Land’s End.”

   “Lyonesse itself supposedly extended from the Cornish peninsula to the Scilly Isles, contained many towns and villages and a total of 140 churches. The lost land also has a place in Arthurian legend; but did it ever exist?”

   “Certainly the Scilly Isles themselves were one island as recently as the period of the Roman occupation, there being reliable descriptions of the Silvram insulam or Scilly Isle in 240AD and by Suplicius Severus in about 400AD. Furthermore, the islands themselves show signs of inundation since the pre-Roman Iron Age, there being huts and walls from this period still visible in the shallow waters between the islands. This, with the Roman reports mentioned above and the Arthurian legend of Lyonesse, strongly suggest the existence of a lost land here at least into the 5th century.”

   “Perhaps the flood described in the Welsh Triads sank Lyonesse, too? Or did all these Celtic legends arise from just one event? Whatever, the timing of this particular submergence seems fairly clear. As for the depth of the submergence, investigations during the 1950s and 1960s put this as 14ft since the Iron Age.”

   “This is enough to link some of the Scillies together, particularly with the aid of sea defenses, but not enough to allow the area from the Scillies to Land’s End to be above sea level in its entirety, though parts such as the Seven Stones reef would be. To allow the whole of the legendary land of Lyonesse to be above sea level would require a drop of 60ft in ocean depth. The last time that this was the case was toward the end of the last Ice Age, some 9,000-10,000 years ago, perhaps stretching back into prehistory.”

East Coast                                                                                                                                                                                                

Plan Of Goodwin Sandbank (photo credit: Claus Ableiter for Wikipedia)

Plan Of Goodwin Sandbank (photo credit: Claus Ableiter for Wikipedia)

   “Moving around the coast to Kent, we come to the Straits of Dover and off the coast near Deal lie the Goodwin Sands, grave for upwards of 50,000 mariners over the centuries. At  low tide the sands can be exposed to such an extent that it is possible to land on them.”

    “Named after Earl Goodwin, the sands were once the island of Lomea, so tradition tells us. Apparently the Earl neglected to maintain the island’s sea defences and, in the ‘Martinmas Storm’ of 1099, it was overwhelmed and never reclaimed.”

    “Core samples taken from the Sands  show that the ‘island’ is basically only a sand bar  with a bedrock of chalk much deeper than sea level. However, in the past, the rivers Stour and Wantsum emptied much more silt into the sea near here, possibly leading to the sustenance of a much more pronounced sandbank than exists today. If this is so, there may be a basis to the legends.”

    “What is factual beyond doubt, however, is the constant erosion  of this coast by the sea to a quite spectacular degree. The Isle of Sheppey, on the North Kent coast, is eroding at an alarming rate. On the north coast of the island is the town of Minster. During the Middle Ages this was situated in the centre of the island! Further north, all along the coast of East Anglia, lonely, windswept clifftops overlook dark, choppy seas where once human activity took place and spectral church bells supposedly toll.”

 Dunwich                                                                                                                                                                                                  

Ruin of All Saints Church, Dunwich, 1904 postcard (Wikipedia)

Ruin of All Saints Church, Dunwich, 1904 postcard (Wikipedia)

   “One ‘lost city’ here is very well documented: Dunwich, on the Suffolk coast between Southwold and Sizewell. It was once a prosperous port situated on the River Blyth and became the capital of Saxon East Anglia reaching its peak during medieval times. But in January 1326 disaster struck. In one night three churches and over 400 houses were swept away in a great storm and one million tons of shingle and sand banked up across the harbor mouth, cutting off the River Blyth and diverting it northwards.”

   “Dunwich died, its trade killed by this sudden lack of a harbour. The population declined as merchants moved away and its sea defences were neglected. By the mid 17th century the market place was awash and house after house, street after street, fell over the crumbling cliffs into the advancing sea. Now, all that remains is a church, a ruined priory, a pub and a few houses.”

Atland                                                                                                                                                                                                        

Map of Doggerland c8,000 BCE (photo credit: Max Naylor for Wikipedia)

Map of Doggerland c8,000 BCE (photo credit: Max Naylor for Wikipedia)

   “Travelling north eastwards across the North Sea brings us to the vicinity of the Dogger Bank, today the shallowest part of the sea between Britain and Scandinavia but at one time a large, populated island. Evidence for this has been found in the form of Mesolithic implements found in the material dredged from the Dogger Bank. The period during which a large island existed here would have been towards the close of the last Ice Age when the sea level was some 60-70ft lower than at present. However, there is a belief that a large island called Atland existed here until 2193BC when it was overwhelmed by tidal waves caused by volcanic activity.”

   “Atland is described in a mysterious book that appeared in London in 1876 called the Oera Linda Book and subtitled ‘from a manuscript of the 13th century.’ The original was in the Frisian language and told of Atland and its inhabitants, the disaster that overwhelmed them and the subsequent history of the survivors who, it is said, carried civilization across the world to, among other places, Egypt, Crete and Greece and were said to be the ancestors of the Celtic races.”

   “Experts thought the book a forgery dating back to about the 1730s. Certainly this is a distinct possibility, especially as some of the contents do not seem credible. For instance, the survivors of Atland did not found the civilization in Egypt; this was already well advanced by 2193BC. Also, why were only the Mediterranean countries settled by Atland survivors and not Britain, France and Holland which were much nearer? Furthermore, there has been no volcanic activity for many millions of years.”

Atlantis                                                                                                                                                                                                     

Athanasius Kircher's Atlantis Map (Mundus Subterraneus 1669) Wikipedia

Athanasius Kircher’s Atlantis Map (Mundus Subterraneus 1669) Wikipedia

   “None of this, however, prevented Robert Scrutton publishing the contents of the Oera Linda book in 1977 in his The Other Atlantis. Naturally parallels are drawn with Plato’s Atlantis which is thought to be the same place – after all the name is surely too similar to be coincidence? Maybe so but it is  equally likely to indicate a deliberate attempt to emulate the Atlantis account.”

   “Nevertheless, Scrutton draws attention to traditions of a major catastrophe of a flood-like nature in the northern hemisphere in times past, recorded in the Welsh Triads and, as we have seen earlier, there may be a basis of fact in those accounts.”

   “What is certain is that today’s sea level is higher than it was in the past and is still rising. Also, large tracts of land have been lost to the sea and, no doubt, given rise to many legendary stories around our coasts.”

   “What is also clear is that such disasters can happen at any time; the devastating East Coast floods of 1953 and 1978 are evidence of this. What has been may be again.”

[If you have found the above article interesting and would like to find out more about this particular topic, then please read the book ‘Lost Cities And Sunken Lands’ by Nigel Pennick, published by Capall Bann, 1997].

Sources:

Harris, Paul., ‘Beneath The Waves’ (article in Prediction magazine), June 1995, Volume 61, Number 6, Croydon, Surrey.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cantre%27r_Gwaelod

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cantre%27r_Gwaelod

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Land%27s_End

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Goodwin_Sands

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunwich

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dogger_Bank

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atlantis